Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

70m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the faultline and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove.
2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto the slabby belay ledge above a huge roof.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay. © Rockfax

FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13/Aug/1978.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Swanage wild pumpfests , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ellis Bird 8 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Just replaced the thread on pitch 3, the two pegs above are in very poor condition. Sept 2020.
Show beta
βeta: Just replaced the thread on pitch 3, the two pegs above are in very poor condition. Sept 2020.
Andy Reeve 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Really superb. Approach details in guidebook are rubbish. Using map in guidebook, locate the style on the 90 degree corner of the fence, hop over this and go directly downhill about 40m. Do not contour to the right (looking out) towards the gully. Gear up and ab from the big stake here down the very steep grass to a pair of stakes, from where you ab again down the line of Frank's little secret. All stakes appear totally sound, and contrary to the guide are in situ. Stake in place for topout once you have negotiated the grass bank.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really superb. Approach details in guidebook are rubbish. Using map in guidebook, locate the style on the 90 degree corner of the fence, hop over this and go directly downhill about 40m. Do not contour to the right (looking out) towards the gully. Gear up and ab from the big stake here down the very steep grass to a pair of stakes, from where you ab again down the line of Frank's little secret. All stakes appear totally sound, and contrary to the guide are in situ. Stake in place for topout once you have negotiated the grass bank.

Logged Ascents

21 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blackers Hole

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 17 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Drop in the Ocean

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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