Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
Rockfax Description
A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the faultline and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove.
2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto the slabby belay ledge above a huge roof.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay. © Rockfax
FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13/Aug/1978.
West Country Climbs , Swanage wild pumpfests , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Ellis Bird | 8 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Just replaced the thread on pitch 3, the two pegs above are in very poor condition. Sept 2020. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Just replaced the thread on pitch 3, the two pegs above are in very poor condition. Sept 2020. |
||||
Andy Reeve | 14 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really superb. Approach details in guidebook are rubbish. Using map in guidebook, locate the style on the 90 degree corner of the fence, hop over this and go directly downhill about 40m. Do not contour to the right (looking out) towards the gully. Gear up and ab from the big stake here down the very steep grass to a pair of stakes, from where you ab again down the line of Frank's little secret. All stakes appear totally sound, and contrary to the guide are in situ. Stake in place for topout once you have negotiated the grass bank. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Really superb. Approach details in guidebook are rubbish. Using map in guidebook, locate the style on the 90 degree corner of the fence, hop over this and go directly downhill about 40m. Do not contour to the right (looking out) towards the gully. Gear up and ab from the big stake here down the very steep grass to a pair of stakes, from where you ab again down the line of Frank's little secret. All stakes appear totally sound, and contrary to the guide are in situ. Stake in place for topout once you have negotiated the grass bank. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)