Rockfax Description
High in the grade with an excellent but testing main pitch. Protection is good. Start as for Obituary Grooves at a slab in front of a large fallen tree.
1) 4c, 22m. Pitch 1 of Obituary Grooves.
2) 5b, 36m. Move up and right with much difficulty to gain the main groove. Take the groove and crack above it - sustained - to a belay on a block below a steep wall and corner.
3) 4c, 9m. Climb the corner/groove on the left to the shoulder of the pinnacle and belay.
4) 15m. Pitch 6 of Troutdale Pinnacle. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Best 25 BORROWDALE VS/HVS's , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , UK Holiday Plans , "Valley Routes" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist , Lakes HVS , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dan’s Delights , Cumbria for the Recreational User

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 12 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Really classy, with one of the best pitches in Borrowdale and good gear throughout. If it's E1, it's low in the grade and safe; if it's HVS, it's high in the grade and safe. On the boundary, either way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really classy, with one of the best pitches in Borrowdale and good gear throughout. If it's E1, it's low in the grade and safe; if it's HVS, it's high in the grade and safe. On the boundary, either way.
LoneDeranger 26 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Surely a typo at 5a. Second pitch is 5b in my book
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surely a typo at 5a. Second pitch is 5b in my book
Simon Mee 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Grade seemed a little mean for the 5a pitch, especially for the move off the belay! Rest of the pitch is pretty sustained, wouldn't want to be leading it if that was the limit of my grade!
Show beta
βeta: Grade seemed a little mean for the 5a pitch, especially for the move off the belay! Rest of the pitch is pretty sustained, wouldn't want to be leading it if that was the limit of my grade!

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Guidebooks for Black Crag (Borrowdale)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 137
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 133
Votes cast 117
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Overhanging Bastion

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Castle Rock of Triermain)

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