16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the main corner to the roof then traverse right, with a foot change on a shiny 'button', to reach the base of the continuation crack. Up this to a ledge and an exit on the left on huge holds. © Rockfax

FA. Keith Axon 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kryank 19 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb, really enjoyable, beautiful movement, and good gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climb, really enjoyable, beautiful movement, and good gear.
Dimart 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No sign of the foot change on a shiny "button". Have no idea what that means. Very small but positive ledge for feet as you come out from the crack. A decent high right foot rock over with great solid hand holds.
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βeta: No sign of the foot change on a shiny "button". Have no idea what that means. Very small but positive ledge for feet as you come out from the crack. A decent high right foot rock over with great solid hand holds.
paul mitchell 2 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag. Paul Mitchell
βeta?
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βeta: The right arete of Nelson's Nemesis is a good E5 6a/b solo,Tom's Arete,which I named after Tom Proctor died.Birchen was his favourite solo crag. Paul Mitchell
helix 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it. But whatever the grade, I don't think anyone could argue with it being three stars, it's an excellent route.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought VS 4b was quite a good grade for this, as although the move right was probably only about 4b, and there is good gear in the horizontal crack, it is a more committing move than on HS, and exposed once you've done it. But whatever the grade, I don't think anyone could argue with it being three stars, it's an excellent route.
Ander 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade
βeta?
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βeta: I did it in the dry, so feel unqualified to comment on it's wet grade
Ander 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb moves, not as hard as it looks.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb moves, not as hard as it looks.
Skyfall 25 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
Skyfall 25 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. Felt like VS 4c to me though quite easy 4c and good gear. Quite exposed on the front face (after the crux).

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 181
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 179
Votes cast 180
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pearly Gates

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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