14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the main groove on good jams to the overhang and an awkward rest. Ape leftward (the tall can bridge it) to gain a square-cut groove. Up this to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Keith Axon 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , The Gritlist , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Phoebe.Yoghurts 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Traverse in the roof was tough as any fall would mean a big swing. Managed to coat the layback crack with blood which made it slippery. Had to climb down from the roof to a ledge to rest and recover. Realised I was too high up into the roof so too tucked up to make the move. Managed it on the second try :)
βeta?
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βeta: Traverse in the roof was tough as any fall would mean a big swing. Managed to coat the layback crack with blood which made it slippery. Had to climb down from the roof to a ledge to rest and recover. Realised I was too high up into the roof so too tucked up to make the move. Managed it on the second try :)
Fidget 10 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, really enjoyed it! It's got everything - a layback (I agree that it's more of a layback than a jamming crack), small ledges, big reaches, slab finish (we managed to finish straight up). If you've got some small nuts you can place them in the left crack to protect the traverse (as long as you've extended your pro on the right to reduce the drag). I dropped onto a crimp on the left from a bridged position, rather than climbing up and traversing the roof.
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βeta: Fantastic route, really enjoyed it! It's got everything - a layback (I agree that it's more of a layback than a jamming crack), small ledges, big reaches, slab finish (we managed to finish straight up). If you've got some small nuts you can place them in the left crack to protect the traverse (as long as you've extended your pro on the right to reduce the drag). I dropped onto a crimp on the left from a bridged position, rather than climbing up and traversing the roof.
Ander 14 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed this route, a lot, so there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyed this route, a lot, so there.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 90
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 87
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Green Gut

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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