On first ascent we started at foot of point five. Diagonally up and left on iced slabs into a corner. Up the corner to below a roof. Wide bridging up the corner to the roof and then a strenuous pull onto a rib on the right turned the roof (crux). Snow and ice face climbing to the crest of Observatory ridge just below the summit plateau.

Nick Banks and Gordon Smith 19/Feb/1978.

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Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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Route of Interest
Direct Route (Winter)

Grade: VII 6 ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)

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