145m, 4 pitches. This fine route is based around the summer route Chicken Run. It gives superb mixed climbing, of similar character and quality to Tower Face of The Comb. Start as for Chicken Run. 1. 25m Climb the steep crack to a ledge. 2. 25m Move up and right for 3m, then head straight up the steep flaky wall to the traverse line of Chicken Run. Follow this to the ‘great flake belay’. 3. 40m Four metres right is an obvious steep left-facing right-angle corner. Gain the base of the corner and climb it strenuously to a very hard move onto the sloping ledge on the right. Peg runner high on the right. Move back left to pull over the bulge. Above and slightly right is a line of steep chimneys and grooves, hidden from below. Climb these in a superb position to an exit right onto a good ledge. 3. 30m Move right along the ledge to where it is possible to break through the short steep barrier wall. Continue up a short V-groove to easier ground. Trend rightwards to belay at the base of a wide open corner system. 4. 25m Climb the fine corner system to the top where Ledge Route comes in from the right.

Simon Yearsley, Malcolm Bass, Jim Higgins 12/Feb/2011.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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