100m, 3 pitches.
A direct on Bruised Violet, culminating in two new, long sustained pitches.
1. 30m Chop Suey pitch 1.
2. 40m Climb cracks up the right wall of the groove (as for Chop Suey) to the upper girdle ledge then pull through the roof and follow the committing groove, (past in-situ pecker of BV). Where Bruised Violet goes hard right, continue direct until beneath a roof. Carefully pull right around the roof and climb the even more committing groove above. At the top of the groove, continue direct following the wide bulging crack line.
3. 30m Climb direct to beneath an overhanging corner with a thin crack. Pull into the corner (crux) and climb it (very sustained) to the top to a rest and a wide crack. Climb a few moves right before continuing direct via small overhangs to the top.
1. 30m Chop Suey pitch 1.
2. 40m Climb cracks up the right wall of the groove (as for Chop Suey) to the upper girdle ledge then pull through the roof and follow the committing groove, (past in-situ pecker of BV). Where Bruised Violet goes hard right, continue direct until beneath a roof. Carefully pull right around the roof and climb the even more committing groove above. At the top of the groove, continue direct following the wide bulging crack line.
3. 30m Climb direct to beneath an overhanging corner with a thin crack. Pull into the corner (crux) and climb it (very sustained) to the top to a rest and a wide crack. Climb a few moves right before continuing direct via small overhangs to the top.
Nick Bullock, Tim Neill 07/Feb/2014.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nick Bullock | 11 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Still waiting a second ascent (as far as I know at this moment in time) as Tom and Ben traversed into BV beneath the third, crux pitch. Good attempt boys, but no cigar :-) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Still waiting a second ascent (as far as I know at this moment in time) as Tom and Ben traversed into BV beneath the third, crux pitch. Good attempt boys, but no cigar :-) |
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Route of Interest
The Last Crusade
Grade: IX 9 ***
(Bidean nam Bian)