Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

24m.

Rockfax Description
An amenable classic taking a good line up the smooth-looking wall on the right-hand side of the cliff. Scramble up grubby ledges to a fat peg belay below the wall. Follow the diagonal break that runs leftwards across the wall, passing between some much blanker terrain. © Rockfax

FA. D.Burgess 1966.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Phil Lyon 10 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be ready for an adventure before you even think about climbing. And don\'t wear shorts; every type of British thorn bush lives on this approach slope.
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βeta: Be ready for an adventure before you even think about climbing. And don't wear shorts; every type of British thorn bush lives on this approach slope.
NIGBEE 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The scramble from the base of the chimney is worth roping up for especially if it is at all wet. I found the route nice but lots of the pockets were full of water/sludge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The scramble from the base of the chimney is worth roping up for especially if it is at all wet. I found the route nice but lots of the pockets were full of water/sludge
supersteve 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure how a dirty, grassy route gets 3 stars, worth doing if you are bored, with some 4c moves thrown in.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure how a dirty, grassy route gets 3 stars, worth doing if you are bored, with some 4c moves thrown in.

Logged Ascents

203 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 24 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valkyrie

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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