15m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the The Great Escape traverse until a steep move over a chert band gains a short groove leading to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 19/Mar/1994.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
Ben Thorne 23 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope. No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder.
βeta?
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βeta: When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope. No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder.
Flannery Lovell 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route.
steve taylor 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts. Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though.
βeta?
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βeta: The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts. Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though.
Flannery Lovell 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there?

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Unseen Ripples of the Pebble

Grade: 6b ***
(Winspit)

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