Rockfax Description
Follow the The Great Escape traverse until a steep move over a chert band gains a short groove leading to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Robertson 19/Mar/1994.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ben Thorne | 23 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope. No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder. | βeta? | |
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βeta: When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope. No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder. |
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Flannery Lovell | 17 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route. |
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steve taylor | 17 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts. Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts. Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though. |
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Flannery Lovell | 16 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there? | βeta? | |
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βeta: How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there? |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Winspit)