Although located on land mapped as open access, climbing on this crag has been historically banned due to concerns about falling rock. Following negotiations between the BMC and the National Trust, access for climbing has now been agreed, subject to a nesting restriction to protect nesting choughs.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are both sea birds and protected species nesting at this cliff and a seasonal restriction is in place from March 1st to June 30th.
Rockfax Description
The clean-cut corner on the left side of the cliff is an excellent route worth calling in for. Ascend the corner and bulges with varied and intricate climbing. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The clean corner on the left side of the slabs and walls has been bolted and provides a good technical exercise
J. Sumner , J.Tulley 28/Dec/1988.
AMC Uni Ticklist , Rock cats getting strong
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Grade: 6b ***
(Bryn Eglwys Quarry)