Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
23m.
Head Tennis without the bolt on hold. a wild dyno move unlocks the free ascent of this line. Good luck clipping without the bolt on... its hard ;)
Sam Tolhurst 07/Aug/2017.
Ticklists
Bristol Bangers , Lifers , 8s with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daniel Heber | 8 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Took so long to get this one once I had all the moves dialled because the dyno is pretty low percentage as you can't see the slot you are aiming for. As with Head Tennis 7c+, I think that with the correct beta, the grade of 8a may be a little high. It's hard to say though as the climb suited my style and I'm over 6' tall which makes the dyno easier. This is also only my second 8a so I don't know much about how an 8a should feel. If people want it, then the beta is as follows: Starting from the first big flat jug, you can get a vertical knee bar out to the right which gives you a no hands rest if you have a knee pad. From here, lean over left and grab the good crimp with your right hand and the undercut on the horizontal arete with your left. Without releasing the knee bar, bump your left foot up to the most obvious black polished foot hold then release the knee bar and put your right foot onto the starting large flat hold. Pull up to grab the obvious left side pull with your left hand and then grab the small 1-2 finger crimp on the arete to the right. Bump your left hand to the top of the sidepull just below the roof then put your left foot on the undercut you used at the start. From here you can drop your right knee into the rock which pulls your hips in and allows you to clip with your right hand. Once clipped, cross your right foot through above your left and put your left foot far out and high to the left. Dyno and pray that you get your hands into the holds! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Took so long to get this one once I had all the moves dialled because the dyno is pretty low percentage as you can't see the slot you are aiming for. As with Head Tennis 7c+, I think that with the correct beta, the grade of 8a may be a little high. It's hard to say though as the climb suited my style and I'm over 6' tall which makes the dyno easier. This is also only my second 8a so I don't know much about how an 8a should feel. If people want it, then the beta is as follows: Starting from the first big flat jug, you can get a vertical knee bar out to the right which gives you a no hands rest if you have a knee pad. From here, lean over left and grab the good crimp with your right hand and the undercut on the horizontal arete with your left. Without releasing the knee bar, bump your left foot up to the most obvious black polished foot hold then release the knee bar and put your right foot onto the starting large flat hold. Pull up to grab the obvious left side pull with your left hand and then grab the small 1-2 finger crimp on the arete to the right. Bump your left hand to the top of the sidepull just below the roof then put your left foot on the undercut you used at the start. From here you can drop your right knee into the rock which pulls your hips in and allows you to clip with your right hand. Once clipped, cross your right foot through above your left and put your left foot far out and high to the left. Dyno and pray that you get your hands into the holds! |
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