Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
23m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Gary Gibson 28/May/1989.

Ticklists

Ban-y-Gor Master , 7Cs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Daniel Heber 4 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Took a while to find the beta for this one. The moves to get to the sidepull felt impossible until I found a horizontal knee bar on the right which you can place whilst matching the very first jug. This allowed me to cross over left to the the crimp under the roof with my right hand and get a low pinch on the corner with my left hand. Once you've bumped your left leg high up onto the most obvious left foot hold you can release the knee bar and get your right foot onto the first jug. This beta made the climb go pretty quick as the rest isn't too bad as long as you have the energy to clip!
Show beta
βeta: Took a while to find the beta for this one. The moves to get to the sidepull felt impossible until I found a horizontal knee bar on the right which you can place whilst matching the very first jug. This allowed me to cross over left to the the crimp under the roof with my right hand and get a low pinch on the corner with my left hand. Once you've bumped your left leg high up onto the most obvious left foot hold you can release the knee bar and get your right foot onto the first jug. This beta made the climb go pretty quick as the rest isn't too bad as long as you have the energy to clip!
J1_TOV 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Watch your shins on those sharp overlaps if you fall at the crux. Yes, it hurts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch your shins on those sharp overlaps if you fall at the crux. Yes, it hurts.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Route of Interest
Boys don't cry

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Tintern Quarry)

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