Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
12m.

Rockfax Description
Head up the tricky lower-wall past a ledge to below the overhang. Unlock a hard sequence to reach the lip of the overhang and then pull around onto the wall and gain the break above it. Finish up the less pressing corner/groove above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Tough balancy climbing to the roof, then a very stiff pull to get established on the side pull at the base of the groove and a flake on the lip out left. A couple of big pulls then lead to the break and an easier upper groove

Martin J Crocker, Matt Ward 02/Jul/1988.

Ticklists

Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , Ban-y-Gor Master , Bristol area road to 7b , 7As with stars near Bristol

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User Date Notes
widdlestickmcpoos 29 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: One move wonder, but a good move at that
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βeta: One move wonder, but a good move at that

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