Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
12m.

Rockfax Description
A tough cookie with both the start and finish being equally challenging. Head up to below a prow and move left under it to reach and then stand on a small ledge under the upper roof. Tackle the unlikely-looking roof and then the easier wall.
Direct Start, 6c+ - The direct line to the small ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Retro of old skool E3 5c. Scoop & roof immediately right of Ugooloo. Start by coming in from the right. Direct start is much harder.

Rob Kingston, Gordon A Jenkin, Matt Ward 20/Jul/1988.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
aj_carter 13 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Good Friday agreement upper section slightly easier than this, and they both share the start, so make of that what you will grade-wise...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good Friday agreement upper section slightly easier than this, and they both share the start, so make of that what you will grade-wise...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Dogged
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heady Days

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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