Rockfax Description
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A direct start isn't much harder. © Rockfax
FA. Andy Bailey 1983.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Will's Whippers
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fiend | 2 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Easy for E3, but seems solid at 6a. The gear in the break is bombproof assuming you place the right stuff, specialist pro is hardly essential. But the move feels quite precarious and unlikely until you actually do it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easy for E3, but seems solid at 6a. The gear in the break is bombproof assuming you place the right stuff, specialist pro is hardly essential. But the move feels quite precarious and unlikely until you actually do it. |
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Tommy G | 8 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I used a 3/4 wire in the left hand side of the break and an RP in the left slot. I felt that both where bomber and held a fall from the crux well. Good route and a probably a good one to break into the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I used a 3/4 wire in the left hand side of the break and an RP in the left slot. I felt that both where bomber and held a fall from the crux well. Good route and a probably a good one to break into the grade. |
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Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: so how do you know how bomber they are? | βeta? | |
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βeta: so how do you know how bomber they are? |
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Daniel Armitage | 15 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I may have been the deck out subject from Apr 25. used Rp3 and Z3 micro in the break. popped of the mono going for break. I weigh 85 kilo. The RP was totally mashed. I have on sighted other "harder E4s" | βeta? | |
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βeta: I may have been the deck out subject from Apr 25. used Rp3 and Z3 micro in the break. popped of the mono going for break. I weigh 85 kilo. The RP was totally mashed. I have on sighted other "harder E4s" |
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Jon Greengrass | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: did you fall on them then? | βeta? | |
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βeta: did you fall on them then? |
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goi.ashmore | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Friend Z1 and Z2 are bomber if you have the patience to place them. Better than the RPs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Friend Z1 and Z2 are bomber if you have the patience to place them. Better than the RPs. |
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Jon Read | 4 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice to go up the arete all the way, too. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice to go up the arete all the way, too. |
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Ropeboy | 7 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: A bit of a one move wonder. Peenuts work well with the extra tapering side. RP's and Aliens also handy for the crux. If you're happy with the gear it feels quite easy for the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A bit of a one move wonder. Peenuts work well with the extra tapering side. RP's and Aliens also handy for the crux. If you're happy with the gear it feels quite easy for the grade. |
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salancaster | 18 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Great, very well protected moves low down. Top would be superb without the other buttress there. Might take some moving though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great, very well protected moves low down. Top would be superb without the other buttress there. Might take some moving though! |
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Nige M | 13 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: The break before the crux takes lots of RP 3's - I placed 5, which in retrospect made the route fairly safe. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The break before the crux takes lots of RP 3's - I placed 5, which in retrospect made the route fairly safe. |
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Tyler | 13 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: How hard this is depends on how much you trust the RPs in horizontal breaks, not totally inspiring but there are lots of them. Certainly didn't feel the soft touch the Rockfax graded list suggests. The top arete is disappointingly easy and disappointingly close to the easy crack. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: How hard this is depends on how much you trust the RPs in horizontal breaks, not totally inspiring but there are lots of them. Certainly didn't feel the soft touch the Rockfax graded list suggests. The top arete is disappointingly easy and disappointingly close to the easy crack. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)