50m.

Rockfax Description
A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up vegetated ground and work easily rightwards to a peg under an overhang. Move down left, then make committing moves up the wall to better holds which lead leftwards again to a small overhang. Move over the overhang rightwards to a small ledge and climb the groove above to a small stance.
2) 5b, 25m. Continue up the groove to an overhang and pull out right and then up into the crack that splits the spectacular final wall. Follow the crack to the left end of the capping overhangs and finish leftwards. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
CAUTION - The lower 2 pegs are currently missing, and there are almost no natural gear placements on P1.
This is currently an extremely bold route.

E Ward Drummond, P Morgan, C Woodhead (1 pt aid) May/1967.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , So you think your an Avon Climber? , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ellis Bird 15 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Something didn’t seem quite right! The tree at 3m wasn’t there and the initial grove had loose rock and dirty. Managed to climb up to the first old peg (bold) with no other gear and then faced with committing moves with just an old peg. Chose the safer option and retreated up the VS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Something didn’t seem quite right! The tree at 3m wasn’t there and the initial grove had loose rock and dirty. Managed to climb up to the first old peg (bold) with no other gear and then faced with committing moves with just an old peg. Chose the safer option and retreated up the VS!

Logged Ascents

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High E4
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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 16
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Captain Swing

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))

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