Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The pleasant dolerite pillar. Move up past bolts to gain the large ledge, then follow the greenstone wall past more bolts to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The Initial bold moves to the ledge has been retro bolted to bring it more in line with the sporty feel to the top section up the Dolerite Pillar.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c

Feedback

User Date Notes
SuperLee1985 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Note, not obvious from the North Wales Slate description/topo. This line goes up the black streak to the right of the 'pillar' not the pillar itself. The line on the pillar is 6B and we got spat right off thinking it would be a nice warm up route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Note, not obvious from the North Wales Slate description/topo. This line goes up the black streak to the right of the 'pillar' not the pillar itself. The line on the pillar is 6B and we got spat right off thinking it would be a nice warm up route!
AledOddy 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As noted by others top right hanger has a loose nut so could potentially be worth seeing to with a spanner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As noted by others top right hanger has a loose nut so could potentially be worth seeing to with a spanner.
Mark Reeves 31 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The initial bold section has been retro bolted making it much more like a sport climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The initial bold section has been retro bolted making it much more like a sport climb

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