July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
A lower start to Looning the Tube reached either from below or by a short abseil from above to a bolt belay. Climb the slab past some bolts to join Looning... © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Direct start to looning the tube, gain access to the lower slab through the tight squeeze tunnel, or the higher easier access tunnels, scramble up to below the main wall along side the easy angled slab, move left after a big bloc, to a bolt belay and stance. Climb towards the looning crack, passing three bolt runners, crux passing the third.
Jim Kelly , John Redhead 27/Mar/2010.
AMC Uni Ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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David Clover | 25 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Worth carrying double size 4 cams for the can slot. Slate cam holding power is not where its at. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Worth carrying double size 4 cams for the can slot. Slate cam holding power is not where its at. |
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Blake | 8 Apr, 2018 |
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βeta: Not sure where the E2 comes from; it's got a line of bolts up it. Either needs the bolts stripping or a sport grade imho as E2 is incorrect. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not sure where the E2 comes from; it's got a line of bolts up it. Either needs the bolts stripping or a sport grade imho as E2 is incorrect. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))