Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

27m.

Rockfax Description
Good moves and positions on the right-facing corner/ramp mostly via its left rib. A stopper move just left of the rock scar is the crux and care is needed with loose rock. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the R facing corner/ramp about 25 m L of Ayers and Graces mostly via its L rib. Very good moves and good positions.Some friable holds remain but generously bolted to compensate. Probably worth an extra star if/when the loose holds are removed by traffic.

Start 25 m L of Ayers and Graces at the foot of the rib.

Climb the lower rib and step R to the big ledge (or go more directly on dubious blocks). Move back to the arete and climb it to a hard move with small footholds that can also be done by moving R into the corner and back L (probably slightly harder). Continue up the groove/ramp above moving out L to finish.

C.Struthers, H. Walmsley 04/Jul/2013.

Ticklists

Slate ArĂȘtes (sport) , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+

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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
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Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Zone of Totality

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Minllyn Quarry)

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