Rockfax Description
14m. A short fingery wall leads to bulges (large cams) which are tackled leftwards then right using the nostril-like pockets.
The right-hand exit is the stretchy Ginger Whinger, E7 7a. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start between Parsons' and Frankland's, climb to the curving break. Climb over this to the left, then using the nostrils climb to the top.
John Syrett, Al Manson. 01/May/1973.
Extreme Rock , The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK? , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven. , Classic Lobs , Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England , 3* Extreme Northern Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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alaan | 3 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Getting the first of the pockets is reachy, I thought. I'm 5'8" (I think...) and reached it only with a good gurn. The moves right were totally unexpected (having not read the description) and where I failed. A fun fall though, with a trusty (and preferably heavy) belayer. Certainly a much easier proposition than the other big E3's... | ||
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βeta: Getting the first of the pockets is reachy, I thought. I'm 5'8" (I think...) and reached it only with a good gurn. The moves right were totally unexpected (having not read the description) and where I failed. A fun fall though, with a trusty (and preferably heavy) belayer. Certainly a much easier proposition than the other big E3's... |
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Dave Musgrove | 17 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: I fell off it twice in the 1970s before I finally cracked it. I was climbing quite well at the time and shouldn't have fallen off 5c moves - at least not that far above the gear. I therefore deduced it must be 6a - I still think so. At least its a pretty safe, if exhilarating, fall. | ||
Show beta
βeta: I fell off it twice in the 1970s before I finally cracked it. I was climbing quite well at the time and shouldn't have fallen off 5c moves - at least not that far above the gear. I therefore deduced it must be 6a - I still think so. At least its a pretty safe, if exhilarating, fall. |
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Chris Craggs | 14 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Oddly when I did it I thought it was rounded, reachy and a bit scary - so when I wrote the description I based it on that experience! CC | ||
Show beta
βeta: Oddly when I did it I thought it was rounded, reachy and a bit scary - so when I wrote the description I based it on that experience! CC |
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Fiend | 14 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: This (E3 5c) is the correct grade, although it is neither reachy, nor fluttery, nor rounded! Just pull on the good holds. However, it is very nice, finely positioned, and well worthwhile. | ||
Show beta
βeta: This (E3 5c) is the correct grade, although it is neither reachy, nor fluttery, nor rounded! Just pull on the good holds. However, it is very nice, finely positioned, and well worthwhile. |
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Andy Reeve | 22 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: I didn't think this was hard for the grade at all. Difficult to judge as it was a few years ago but it was my first proper route at the grade. Much easier than the other two big almscliffe E3s! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I didn't think this was hard for the grade at all. Difficult to judge as it was a few years ago but it was my first proper route at the grade. Much easier than the other two big almscliffe E3s! |
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alaan | 17 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Definately hard for the grade- failed to lead this, took a fall from the top pocket. Gutted. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Definately hard for the grade- failed to lead this, took a fall from the top pocket. Gutted. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Flaystones)