Rockfax Description
145m. Another excellent route. You'll be glad of a small rack on some of the pitches so take a few cams and wires. The route starts 40m right of Modern Times, about 2m right of a broken corner. In late season it is necessary to scramble 20m to reach the first belay. There are no bolts on this section and this start only appeared because the previously permanent snowfield beneath the route is now only present until mid-summer.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the light-coloured slab and the steeper pillar above. The crux move is about 10m up the pitch, and there's an intermediate belay at 20m if you want to keep a closer eye on your second.
2) 4a, 15m. Drift left across easier ground to a belay on a black section of rock.
3) 4c, 30m. Climb the black pillar straight above the belay.
4) 4c, 30m. Cross the gully just to the right of the belay and then climb up to the ledge system below the summit tower. Walk easily rightwards to a belay which is shared with Modern Times.
5) 5a, 30m. Go to the far side of a small gully (snow filled in early summer, as in this photo) and climb the slab above. © Rockfax
Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Neonatal Alpinist 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
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acer2012 | 17 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Excellent route. Mostly bolted apart from the last pitch, although the first pitch would be very spicy without a few cams! Last pitch can be swapped out for the last pitch of Modern Times. Not that hard to find the route, just follow the line in the Rockfax guide; descriptions only really make sense in hindsight. Less than 5 hours round trip from the Index lift and that was with lunch and some traffic. | ||
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βeta: Excellent route. Mostly bolted apart from the last pitch, although the first pitch would be very spicy without a few cams! Last pitch can be swapped out for the last pitch of Modern Times. Not that hard to find the route, just follow the line in the Rockfax guide; descriptions only really make sense in hindsight. Less than 5 hours round trip from the Index lift and that was with lunch and some traffic. |
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Steve Mr P | 11 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: 100% bolted top pitch a dream | βeta? | |
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βeta: 100% bolted top pitch a dream |
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Webster | 30 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: all fully bolted except the last pitch, which is 100% trad, but you can do one of the two bolted lines on the final tower instead if you want to leave the rack. as always the rockfax topo does not match the description and is fairly useless in the middle pitches of the route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: all fully bolted except the last pitch, which is 100% trad, but you can do one of the two bolted lines on the final tower instead if you want to leave the rack. as always the rockfax topo does not match the description and is fairly useless in the middle pitches of the route. |
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Grade: D ***
(Petite Aiguille de l'Arcelin)