150m.

Rockfax Description
185m. A good fully bolted route with consistent difficulty throughout. The start is hidden on the vague rib roughly 10m right of Mani Puliti, below and right of an overlap. The first bolt is not visible from the ground but it soon appears.
1) 4c, 50m. Climb broken, slabby ground drifting rightwards throughout to a bolted belay.
2) 4c, 15m. A much shorter pitch which leads to a peg/bolt belay beneath a low-angled slab.
3) 4c, 35m. Head up the slab and the wall above before moving left at the top.
4) 4b, 30m. Climb up directly to the summit tower, ignoring the line of bolts on the right (which are part of Nez Rouge).
5) 3a, 25m. Scramble easily rightwards to a stance just below and right of an overlap.
6) 5a, 30m. Climb the superb rib above to a stunning belay with perfect views across the Mont Blanc massif. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
On the southeast flank as Mani Puliti and Nez rouge, just to the right of the Index. The route is bolted. (grade may not be same as guidebook, please change if you know)

Ticklists

Alps 2023 , Cham Sep 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ryan23 22 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not so well bolted as Rockfax makes out, someone climbing at yheir limit might like some more gear. In trainers except the last pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not so well bolted as Rockfax makes out, someone climbing at yheir limit might like some more gear. In trainers except the last pitch
Webster 30 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: there is a bolted belay after about 40m on the first pitch, followed by about a 15m unprotected pitch to reach the next slightly hanging bolted belay... so ignore the rockfax 50m first pitch! also its 3c at most, not 4c! the 4b pitch is much easier than it looks, trust the bolts go the right way! ignore the rockfax topo as usual.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there is a bolted belay after about 40m on the first pitch, followed by about a 15m unprotected pitch to reach the next slightly hanging bolted belay... so ignore the rockfax 50m first pitch! also its 3c at most, not 4c! the 4b pitch is much easier than it looks, trust the bolts go the right way! ignore the rockfax topo as usual.

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Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 4
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Migot Spur

Grade: D- 3 ***
(Aiguille du Chardonnet)

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