170m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 165m. A good bolted line that provides an alternative to Frison-Roche which is often busy. It has some good sustained face climbing in its upper half.
1) 6a, 45m. Follow the line of bolts trending up leftwards. À Fleur de Roche takes the right-hand line of bolts.
2) 5c, 30m. Follow corners and crimps up and left.
3) 6a, 30m. A nice pitch on crimps overlooking the Frison-Roche.
4) 6b, 40m. Great technical climbing on a steep wall.
5) 6a, 30m. Another good steep pitch. Beware for loose rock! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The 'new' route on the Brévent face. Starts just to the right of Frison-Roche. 5 pitches - 6a, 5c, 6a, 6b (A0), 5c. Good climbing on the whole, in particular the 6b pitch which is excellent. Rock is slightly loose in places though so take care. Fully bolted though a bit spaced so not one for pushing your grade on.

Thierry Renault, Jonathan Charlet, Christophe Blaszczyk 2014.

Ticklists

Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 6 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: there are lots of dangerous runouts, you would take a ground fall on much of the first pitch as the gully follow you up the rising traverse. on most of the rest of the route you would take nasty ledge falls on hard moves so the leader needs to be very very comfortable on 6b...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there are lots of dangerous runouts, you would take a ground fall on much of the first pitch as the gully follow you up the rising traverse. on most of the rest of the route you would take nasty ledge falls on hard moves so the leader needs to be very very comfortable on 6b...
mic.snow 17 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Note: Not equipped for abseil. The belay bolts are connected with cord, but most have no rings.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Note: Not equipped for abseil. The belay bolts are connected with cord, but most have no rings.
Stuart Johnston 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Don't start too far right of frisson Roche as there is another line of bolts at about 6A. We traverse to piste oubliee after the 2nd pitch. Leaving gear. 6a and 6b pitches are pure quality face climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't start too far right of frisson Roche as there is another line of bolts at about 6A. We traverse to piste oubliee after the 2nd pitch. Leaving gear. 6a and 6b pitches are pure quality face climbing.

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Votes cast 7
High 6b+
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Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vent du Dragon

Grade: TD 5 ***
(Aiguille du Midi)

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