Rockfax Description
II, 195m. A firmly traditional route with some old-school climbing. Start at some broken ledges, below and left of a 10m corner.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the ledges and the corner and step right to a belay on the right.
2) 4c, 35m. Continue up broken slabby ground to a belay beneath a groove.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the groove, which can be pretty slippery, and continue up to a belay 5m below a small roof.
4) 5c, 35m. Carry on up the groove to the roof, go around it on the left and then come back right to belay in a notch below some impressive slabs.
5) 4b, 50m. Go straight up the slabs, then right to a belay just below the ridge crest.
6) 4b, 35m. Step left and climb the excellent flake-filled chimney to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
UIAA V with one move of V+/VI-, (the Piola guide has the crux pitch as French 5). Lower pitches are slow to dry.
J Couzy and M Proust 27.7.1952 27/Jul/1952.
Ticklists
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tskelhon | 2 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax guide is not quite right, esp at the top - picture in book is misleading. P1 - Follow the corner - 30-50m choosing one of several in situ belays P2 - When crack ends continue rightwards, over broken ground to multiple pegs in a niche with 2 grooves above (can belay here, but it's uncomfy) P3 - Take right hand groove, and then easier slabby ground drifting rightwards. Belay below a roof on pegs and tat. P4 - Follow groove up and right, gets a little awkward. You'll reach a split with a groove to the left with a roof, and a groove to the right - go right (this is the classic 5c smear groove part. Advised to belay at several pegs below a massive roof, looking down on the smear groove. P5 - Climb just left around the roof, through some steep but well protected terrain (pegs) and up a niche. In situ belay on the right just above niche. P6 - Follow the vague groove directly upwards onto some slabs, continue on slabs upwards - belay on ridge crest. P7 - walk North along ridge for 30m to below final cracks and flakes P8 - Take easiest crack/flake system to summit (this is the original and 4b line) Alternative 6a crack finish P6* - instead of going straight up to ridge crest, veer left aiming to a deep chimney system, when entering the niche, traverse easily up and left onto a platform below the distinctive offwidth crack - belay here P7 - Take the offwidth crack direct (at least 4 pegs in the lower part) to the summit. (this is pictured in the book) | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax guide is not quite right, esp at the top - picture in book is misleading. P1 - Follow the corner - 30-50m choosing one of several in situ belays P2 - When crack ends continue rightwards, over broken ground to multiple pegs in a niche with 2 grooves above (can belay here, but it's uncomfy) P3 - Take right hand groove, and then easier slabby ground drifting rightwards. Belay below a roof on pegs and tat. P4 - Follow groove up and right, gets a little awkward. You'll reach a split with a groove to the left with a roof, and a groove to the right - go right (this is the classic 5c smear groove part. Advised to belay at several pegs below a massive roof, looking down on the smear groove. P5 - Climb just left around the roof, through some steep but well protected terrain (pegs) and up a niche. In situ belay on the right just above niche. P6 - Follow the vague groove directly upwards onto some slabs, continue on slabs upwards - belay on ridge crest. P7 - walk North along ridge for 30m to below final cracks and flakes P8 - Take easiest crack/flake system to summit (this is the original and 4b line) Alternative 6a crack finish P6* - instead of going straight up to ridge crest, veer left aiming to a deep chimney system, when entering the niche, traverse easily up and left onto a platform below the distinctive offwidth crack - belay here P7 - Take the offwidth crack direct (at least 4 pegs in the lower part) to the summit. (this is pictured in the book) |
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Swiss Route
Grade: TD- 4 ***
(Les Courtes)