Rockfax Description
II, 170m, 3 - 4 hours. The route begins with the famous Etala Chimneys.
1) Climb the right-hand chimney with as much style as you can muster to reach a large ledge. There are two well-placed pegs protecting the tricky moves. Climb the corner on the right before stepping left onto a slab and climbing the steep and tight chimney above (easier than it looks) which has a good peg.
2) Follow easy but loose ground to the Col de l'Etala.
3) 4c. Head north towards a pyramid of red rock on the ridge leading to the Petits Charmoz. Climb this, initially on the left, before moving back right to head straight for the 'livre ouvert' (open book) pitch. This is the technical crux of the route and features a physical rockover onto a ledge which is well protected by pegs.
4) Follow the crack above to a good ledge and then stick to the ridge crest, or just off it on the Mer de Glace side. Follow easy but exposed scrambling for 50m to reach a distinct notch with a superb view down to the Nantillons Glacier.
5) At the notch, pass onto the Nantillons side and reach a slabby ledge beneath the summit of the peak.
6) 4a. Climb to the summit via a steep, polished (but technically easy) chimney, a left-leaning corner and a short slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
** There has been significant rockfall on the route and the summit is no longer there. Pitches 5 and 6 are not possible. There is now an ab station in place off the east side down to the ladders. **

A highly reccomended little route which is extremely popular. The granite, though sound, is often very polished and the ascent to the Col de l'Etala provides a classic initiation into the delights of the typical 'Chamonix' chimney!

M Pasteur, J Wicks and C Wilson 05/Jul/1898.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Summer easier alpine , Neonatal Alpinist 2023 , TM Alps , Cham Sep 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
Francis Hardy 4 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Descent: since the top fell of there now seems to be a few options for descending. From the large ledge at the end of the climbing you can probably scramble down a slightly loose gully left of the obvious abseil tat, or theres an awkward 25m abseil from the tat that takes you to the same place above the left gulley. Going down the left gully seems to require a mix of down climbing and abs on fixed gear of varying quality. We eventually decided to avoid this and scrambled over right following cairns to the Col de la Buche. From here is a reasonable scramble path on the left side of the col. Two thirds of the way down we joined snow fields (crampons helpful) that took us nearly to the top of the ladders. Not sure what the lower part of the Buche couloir is like in dry conditions. Probably a path on fairly loose scree. Also the ladders don't reach the moraine anymore so a final ab is needed from the top of the last ladder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent: since the top fell of there now seems to be a few options for descending. From the large ledge at the end of the climbing you can probably scramble down a slightly loose gully left of the obvious abseil tat, or theres an awkward 25m abseil from the tat that takes you to the same place above the left gulley. Going down the left gully seems to require a mix of down climbing and abs on fixed gear of varying quality. We eventually decided to avoid this and scrambled over right following cairns to the Col de la Buche. From here is a reasonable scramble path on the left side of the col. Two thirds of the way down we joined snow fields (crampons helpful) that took us nearly to the top of the ladders. Not sure what the lower part of the Buche couloir is like in dry conditions. Probably a path on fairly loose scree. Also the ladders don't reach the moraine anymore so a final ab is needed from the top of the last ladder.
343940 16 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The last 2 pitches in rockfax are not correct. The summit has now collapsed, abesil from the east side down to the ladders there is a lots of ab tat in place.
βeta?
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βeta: The last 2 pitches in rockfax are not correct. The summit has now collapsed, abesil from the east side down to the ladders there is a lots of ab tat in place.
Webster 5 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: approach from montenvers, not plan de l'aguille as the guide book suggests. its much more straightforward and (especially in mid to late summer) safer. descent from the top is in 3
βeta?
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βeta: approach from montenvers, not plan de l'aguille as the guide book suggests. its much more straightforward and (especially in mid to late summer) safer. descent from the top is in 3
FreeloaderJoe 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The approach to this route via the glacier and moraine is utterly miserable. Not sure it is worth doing with conditions as they are. Don't be tempted by the endless cool lines/chimneys/gear/tat and other misadventure on the way up to the first Col - you will regret it. Difficult route finding on way down. Make sure you know where you are in relation to the rouge gendarme before attempting descent.
βeta?
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βeta: The approach to this route via the glacier and moraine is utterly miserable. Not sure it is worth doing with conditions as they are. Don't be tempted by the endless cool lines/chimneys/gear/tat and other misadventure on the way up to the first Col - you will regret it. Difficult route finding on way down. Make sure you know where you are in relation to the rouge gendarme before attempting descent.
rurp 26 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t downclimb far. Turn right facing out (west) and head to the col with the m then easy down from there
Show beta
βeta: Don’t downclimb far. Turn right facing out (west) and head to the col with the m then easy down from there
iainJ 11 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Ab back down the slab from the top (one pitch) then scramble down rather than doing three abbs off the back of the summit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ab back down the slab from the top (one pitch) then scramble down rather than doing three abbs off the back of the summit.

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Votes cast 12
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Low 5a
High 4c
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Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Clocher-Clochetons Traverse

Grade: AD 5a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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