300m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 275m. One of the best mid grade crack routes of the massif up superb orange granite. A large cam can be useful.

1) 6b, 40m. Follow broken ledges up until a slab leads out left to a platform.
2) 6a+, 40m. Head out right from the platform and climb cracks, passing the roofs on the right. The next belay is above the second roof on a single bolt (and cam placements).
3) 5c, 30m. Follow flakes above the belay, up and left until below a corner.
4) 6a+, 45m. Climb the corner.
5) 6b, 40m. Climb the cracks on the right until below the large flake. Climb round this on the left and follow the crack to a belay.
6) 6b+, 25m. Keep following the fantastic crack until a step right at a bolt gives access to another a crack system. This leads to a belay on a ledge.
7) 6b, 45m. Step right and follow more great crack systems to the ridge.
Descent - Abseil back down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fairly obvious after the first pitch. The topo in the Batoux is a little vague for the start, best try to check out the line drawing in the old Piola hard back.But if all else fails, just try to get to the first bolt belay above the overhangs as the quality just gets better the higher you get!

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alpine Dreamz , Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.

Feedback

User Date Notes
cbee12 7 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Super cool route! Another team lent us a second #4 cam for the top pitch, which came in handy.
Show beta
βeta: Super cool route! Another team lent us a second #4 cam for the top pitch, which came in handy.
Dave Wills 12 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The French guide gives p5 6b+ & p6 6c. It's probably the other way around
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The French guide gives p5 6b+ & p6 6c. It's probably the other way around

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Voting
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
Votes cast 1
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nant Blanc Face - British Route (English Route)

Grade: ED1 ***
(L'Aiguille Verte)

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