200m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 170m. One of the best rock climbs in this book, this is a real classic of the area, with a combination of slabby and steep climbing. All the belays are bolted and there is the odd bolt on the bolder sections but you'll need a full rack.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the flake and slab above to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 25m. Follow the slab just to the left of a corner.
3) 6a, 30m. Go up right from the belay and make a few thin moves leftwards to avoid a small roof (bolted). Carry on up more easily to a belay in a stunning spot.
4) 4c, 30m. Enjoyable slab climbing leads to a small ledge.
5) 4c, 25m. Follow the seam out leftwards and then straight up to belay 10m right of South Ridge.
6) 5c, 25m. Head out right and then climb straight up the steep slab. Move out right where this becomes vertical and then follow another slab to join South Ridge.
7) 4a, 15m. The final pitch of South Ridge.
Descent - Abseil down the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Partially bolted slab climbing on perfect red granite.

Fran?ois Burnier.

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Summer easier alpine

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User Date Notes
iainJ 13 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Small crack in the bolt hanger protecting the step across the overlap at the crux. Easily backed up with a cam, but probably fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Small crack in the bolt hanger protecting the step across the overlap at the crux. Easily backed up with a cam, but probably fine.
tintinandpip 14 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great ski in from Gran Montets, about 3 hours. Perfect granite, faff free ab, an hour on skis from the route leads to the bar in the valley ! Perfect
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great ski in from Gran Montets, about 3 hours. Perfect granite, faff free ab, an hour on skis from the route leads to the bar in the valley ! Perfect
Cbulman 3 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nearly all hard moves are bolted.
Show beta
βeta: Nearly all hard moves are bolted.

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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 7
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nabot-Léon

Grade: TD- 5c ***
(Aiguille de Blaitière)

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