Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 828m a.s.l
Faces all
John Arran wishing he had wings on the Envie d'ailes (8a) Dévers du Sédour © Anne Arran
This is the fine peak to the west of Tarascon and east of Calamès. It has three main developed sectors, though sadly at the moment one of these is banned - the Grande Paroi, the tall buttress directly below the summit of the mountain. There are several mid-grade multi-pitch routes here but currently climbing is not allowed because of fears about rockfall.
That leaves us with the fiercely overhanging test-pieces of the Dévers (Overhangs) and soaring pitches of the Cimetière des Boucs - both of which are well worth a visit if you are up to the grades and/or approach walk.
The Cimetière des Boucs faces south and gets loads of sun, the Dévers faces west so benefits from morning shade. The Cimetière dries quickly, the Dévers can seep after prolonged rain but provide shelter at other times. The quarry is north-facing so does have shade.
From Tarascon take the D818 in the direction of Bédeilhac. Immediately before the village there is a large layby on the right just below a sign that marks the entrance to Bédeilhac village - park here for the two main crags. The quarry is reached from the parking close to the show cave.
All of the main crags normally have access restrictions for nesting birds between 1st February and 15th September - check any signs on the approach routes or at the Mairie in Surba. There are no restrictions for Bédeilhac Quarry.
40 minutes to walk up to le cimetiere des boucs? sarah & I took 1 hour Tony & Sarah - 27/Nov/14 |
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Poor routes with some dangerous loose rock / blocks. Why it's been included in the new Rockfax guide is strange as it's a real waste of bolts and definitely not worth a visit. Sl@te Head - 22/May/13 |
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