Crag features

This block is made of quarried Cornish granite. It sits in the middle of an open green space in a regeneration area of east London not far from the 2012 Olympics site.

Mabley Green is bounded on one side by the Eastway (the A12) and on the opposite side by a steep road going through Homerton. There are two main entrances: one on the Eastway/Victoria Park side, and one on the Homerton side.

The block isn't aligned with the major points of the compass, so routes are described as belonging to one of four faces:


Homerton Face or Easy Slab. The biggest area of all the faces: has entry-level footholds lower down including a massive shot-hole, visible from a distance.

Overhang: this means the obviously overhanging face with a square-cut chunk missing at ground level. It also has 2 x two-finger shot-holes at about 2 metres above ground level and a curved narrow ledge about 1 metre above the ground.

Victoria Park Face: an overhanging 'scoop' with two large shot-holes. Otherwise virtually featureless apart from some very marginal undercut crimps, a left-facing fingertip flake on the right hand side and a single positive side-pull high-up to the left.

Mantel Face: features a flake/ narrow mantel-shelf ledge which may collect sand.

Please can you respect these face-naming conventions when you suggest new problems.

Note that the Victoria Park Face is also overhanging, but the one described as Overhang is more steeply overhanging and has obviously more positive features.

Descent route: The easiest way down is via the Mantel Face, which features a reasonable ledge. The landing is soft but depending on your experience, a crash pad and a spotter may be an idea as the descent is more technical than the easier routes on the block.

Ground Level: the ground level of this Boulder has changed making many of the sit starts significantly more difficult 

The boulder at this location is half of an art work called 'Boulder', by John Frankland. The other half is situated in Shoreditch. These were installed in Autum 2008.

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