Crag features

The long limestone escarpment of Murroughkilly faces west and runs north/south above the village of Fanore between Black Head lighthouse and the Khyber Pass road. The crag has an atmosphere all of its own, ancient and wild, its only regular visitors being a herd of wild goats. It can be a good alternative when Ailladie is affected by sea-spray, though it takes the full brunt of westerly winds itself. Given that it is an unfrequented mountain cliff care should be taken with the rock, particularly at the tops of routes. Most of the climbs follow corners and cracks and there is still much scope for new routes.

Access - For the left-hand (northern) end of the crag park at the Black Head lighthouse (limited parking) and go straight up the hillside to reach the old ruined fort (Cathair Dhún Irghuis) after about 15 minutes. The crag can be easily seen ahead and to the right at about 450m.

For the southern end park about 1km up the Khyber Pass road just beyond the pass itself. There is a gate on the left. From here cross the stream, passing some sheep pens, and head diagonally leftwards up towards the crag.

Both approaches take about 30 minutes.

The crag is divided into 8 separate areas described from left to right (north to south). The height varies from 10m to 20m.

Walk from the old fort to the junction of the stone walls and continue in the same line to reach the bay with the clean bulging buttress on the right which gives this area its name. The climbs are on the steep clean wall on the left which is cut by vertical cracks and bounded on the left by a short corner. Left of this the escarpment is broken and vegetated.