Climbs 84
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 125m a.s.l
Faces S
La Vieux Breuil © compact
Crag features
This is a great little crag with some great little routes. Each route has a real character to it and can be be quite hard for the grades.
There are all sorts of difficulties from 4 to a great 7c+ called the revolution. Great finger-pulling action.
Approach notes
Drive to GPS co-ordinates N 45° 20.940', E 0° 31.111' and park on the roadside. Often you will see other cars there. (Update August 2016 - now easily found as there is hard standing at the roadside for car parking - it was installed this year). Also worth a visit to the local dolmen and the troglodytic village a few hundred meters up the road).
In Paussac is a climbers' bar: they have a photo copy of the routes - you can look at.
There are good wooden road signs pointing to the crags, but when you come close, it is hidden in the trees on the right of the road (can easily miss it)
(P.S. map location isn't exact)
(Translated from a French Site) Paussac - St Vivien 30km NNW of Perigueux. Before the church Paussac take direction Léguillac Circles (D93). Continue about 2 kilometers, then turn left the village of Breuil and cross it and the site is located 500m further down the road on the right just as you start going uphill round a right hand bend. (parking on the side).
| Excellent new guidebook - Escalade en Perigord by Mathieu Mercier ISBN 978-2-35669-037-1 published 2011 Mark Kemball - 21/Feb/12 |
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| Pleasant location and good shade for belayers is the best I can say.
This crag is a throwback to the way I remember French sport crags in the late 80's The grades are hard almost without exception and bolts are often well spaced. Expect to pull hard on two tip pockets and monos at modest grades!Often with poor feet also.
It seems to get 6a a route needs a font 6a crux. Also the crag is a lot shorter than the new guide would make it appear. sheppy - 21/Jul/11 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Sami Mandeel