Climbs 7
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 1912m a.s.l
Faces N
Crag features
The climbing here is generally no harder than WI3, and mostly goes at WI2/2+. The first flow you see leads right into the rock face - but around the corner gets you to the main flow.
The main flow climbs to a good 2 bolt anchor with chains on climbers right at 35m. Please note the 35m distance! You'll need a 70m rope if you generally want to top rope from the anchor. Many options exists for ice screw anchors lower down to stay at a 30m top rope option.
About 30m to the left of the main flow lies a fun 20m climb (might be steep at WI3) with 2 bolt anchors on the wall to your right. Another great option to top-rope.
30m beyond that, again to the left lies the Scottish Gully climb. A great 30m WI3 in a corner leading to an even greater tree trunk anchor.
Back on the main flow, the right corner can also be climbed at around M5+, depending on the amount of ice. It's usually pretty thin and desperate, hence the M rating. 2 bolts up on the rock at 30m above a small buldge.
Gear required: 1x 60-70m rope depending what you climb/setup Ice screws (to comfort), ice tools and crampons.
Approach notes
From Calgary, drive towards Kananaskis and the Peter Lougheed Provincial Park turn-off. There are park gates here that close after December 1. Kings Creek is the obvious pull-out to your left. Locked gates prevent you from parking in the actual parking area (not sure why).
From the parking area, there should be a well worn path leading up to the ice flows. If not, the general rule of thumb is follow the creek bed for about 20 minutes.
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Climbs at this crag
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