UKC

Climbs 79
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 35m a.s.l
Faces S

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Top roping at Carderock © Geoffrey Reiff

Crag features

Carderock is a part of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historic Park. It is located on the Potomac River between Vaso Island and the Canal along the Billy Goat Trail.There is no fee to enter the Park. The rock is micha-schist and ranges from 30-50 Ft.with the majority of the climbs about 35 ft. There is a good variety of features in this small area, aproxiamately 200 yds. of friction slabs, overhangs, and cracks. A predominately low angle base makes this an excellent area for bouldering. While the rock is stable, it is not recomended for trad climbing because the protection will slip or break out. Bring enough anchor for trees about 20-30 ft. from the edge of the cliff. There are 35 routes 5.5 to 5.8 and 65 routes from 5.9 to 5.12. Many of the routes can be climbed from the same anchor, providing for good warm-ups and challanges for climbers of all abilities. Carderock can be very crowded on weekends in good weather.

Approach notes

From the park entrance, turn right and drive all the way down to the last parking lot.  The trail head begins near the bathrooms and leads directly to the Crag.  The first decent is an easy scramble that continues straight when the trail forks.  An alternative decent is available after turning right on Billy Goat Trail, and branches left from the main trail after the stairs.

No Access Issues

The crag will occassionally close due to flooding from the Potomac River.  The area is also home to vultures, which may choose to nest in there.  When this is the case, these climbs should be avoided.

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Climbs at this crag

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