UKC

Climbs 15
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 7m a.s.l
Faces W

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Starting up the short crack that reaches the middle summit on the Tour of Wicca Pillar (VD) at Wicca Pillar, West Penwith. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Wicca Pillar is the only granite intrusion on a 10km coastal stretch of dark greenstone and killas. It has a number of short enjoyable routes and is an ideal venue for a picnic.

Approach notes

Approach to Wicca pillar is from Treveal Farm, which is gained by the right-of-way track from the B3306. There is no convenient parking on the coast road. However, there is parking for about 6 cars at Wicca Farm (small fee).

From the parking, return along the lane to join the Treveal approach track. Where this track forks, take the left branch past handsome old barns and along a narrow lane. Go through a metal gate, where the lane ends at an overgrown meadow, bear left for a few metres, and then go along a faint grassy path, which improves. At an open meadow, turn left between granite gateposts and follow an obvious path. Cross a low wall (granite memorial bench on the left) and descend to the Coast Path. The crag is 100m to the southwest.

Can anyone tell me the usual route of descent please? Is it a case of downclimbing or do you abseil off? If so can this be done without leaving gear behind?? I went there the other day for the first time, VERY heavy sea running so we stuck to the inland routes and couldn't safely get up the Pillar, particularly as we weren't sure of the route down!! Any advice appreciated!
neilstubbs - 11/Jul/11
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