UKC

Climbs 27
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 311m a.s.l
Faces S

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Face Value, Pandy © caradoc

Crag features

Good quality rock of a nondescript, granite-like type. A wealth of routes for such a small outcrop.

Approach notes

From the Chirk direction of the A5, take the B4500 for 8.5 miles to Pandy Village. Turn right at he old chapel on the right just before the bridge, to follow a very narrow lane for half a mile up the river Teriw valley to where the lane opens out at a parking and turning point. Walk back eastwards up a good track for ten minutes which brings you out to the top of the crag.

Restricted Access

The rocks are located in a block of privately owned woodland that are being actively managed.  Due to ongoing forestry operations, access may not always be possible and could be different from that described in the guidebook. 

Parking can be an issue. Do not park  at the base of the track leading to the crag. Parking  should in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.

The BMC has been attempting to get hold of the Land Owner, there has been no communication from them to confirm the access, we therefor ask any climbers to act respectfully if you are asked to leave. 

Parking currently (July 2020) reduced by a pile of stones. Perhaps only room for two cars.
Darron - 17/Jul/20
Crow spotted nesting today on the cannon arete.
Otis - 18/Apr/14
Birds currently nesting on Cannon arete - best avoided till the summer
Colin Wells - 18/Apr/14
Once again there are bids nesting in the route Cannon Arete but also several nests within the Cannon Chimney. So, routes to avoid till the end of summer. Cheers
Joss - 19/May/11
cheers for updating this Joss!! We have no issues with private or group climbing, in fact we encourage it! Just need to make sure we dont annoy the other land owners and local residents, so keep on top of the access to the crag and the parking!! psych!
@officialstubbs - 22/Feb/11
Please read the updated access notes above. Please respect the wishes of the landowner to keep access relations running smoothly.
Joss - 07/Jan/11
2010: The crag is now owned by Nantyr Outdoor Education centre and permission needs to be sought before climbing there. The manager is Steve Mattocks. The Centre would generally be using the crag during week daytimes.
Joss - 22/Apr/10
As from 2009 the crag is now owned by Nantyr Outdoor Education centre and permission needs to be sought before climbing there. The manager is Steve Mattocks. The Centre would generally be using the crag during week daytimes.
Joss - 21/May/09
hi - this is not true - the landowner does prohibit use dependent on his mood and how narked off he is at the time - especially when he sees clubs using only one anchor point belaying from the top of the crag!!
dave thorley - 28/Aug/07
People saying that the landowner prohibits access are confusing this crag with Pandy Quarry-Hendre Quarry, which is further up the valley.
Joss - 10/Jan/07
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Climbs at this crag

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