UKC

Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 347m a.s.l
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Great Asby Scar © petegunn

Crag features

A topo can be found on the FRCC site:

https://www.frcc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Middle-Busk-Scar-28.08.2021.pdf

Magnificently situated 2 km north of Sunbiggin Tarn and 5 km east of Orton, this Tiny, south-facing, extensive scar offers many micro problems on juggy limestone.

Some history of local climbing for many years, atleast since the early 90s.

All numbered problems were opened by BJ Clarke 4/3/08 others added by Eden Valley Club members.

Be aware of sensitive and unspoilt limestone habitat and situation, keep it feeling wild, minimise chalk use and avoid trampling/ damaging vegetation in the clints and grykes. 

Approach notes

Situated 2 km north of Sunbiggin Tarn and 5 km east of Orton. Park just below the summit of the Middle Busk road at a public footpath sign and walk north towards the scar, where the only landmarks are a tree and a bush. The first rocks are tiny, and then dwindle, then after another 100m increase in size to be just about worth playing on. Approach: 5 minutes. 

Been climbing here since i could walk nearly haha , nice remote crag with lots of easy routes no real point in a topo or problem names as there is now, relay in the spirit of just going and exploring . but if you are climbing here remember it has traditionally had very little traffic, and as such is a real haven for nature etc. was up there last night and noticed that since it was listed on here lots of chalk marks and trampled vegetation are now visible. as its very gripy and super low grade think about if you need chalk , avoid gardening and look where you put your feet when down climbing as these high moorland limestone habitats are relatively un-molested.
george sewell - 14/Jun/23
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