Climbs 12
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 155m a.s.l
Faces S
Crag features
This is a brand-new crag, with no signs of any climbing previously. This is located at the back end of “The Dark Side” wall at the main quarry and is split into two distinct walls, the left wall and right wall. The left wall has mainly fun slabby problems, while the right wall offers the bulk of the quality and difficulties. None of the problems require a top-out, as there is too much vegetation and loose rock. Therefore, each finish will be described. The landing is mainly flat, and a bit damp, so a tarp will be of use in the wetter periods. However, be cautious of old metalware from the old quarry.
With the amount of vegetation above, some seepage is likely, so allow a day after heavy rain to fully dry out. As this crag is recently developed, the crag may still feel a bit dirty which will soon clear up after traffic. The crag is sheltered and highly vegetated and not much sun makes it to the crag.
Approach notes
From Mold, head west on the A541 aiming for Rhydymwyn. Take the first real left hand turn onto Nant-Alyn road (Opposite old Car Hire). Take the 2nd left (just before the road bends around to the left) and then take the first right (large triangle). Follow this road, bearing right at a split until a small church is reached. Either park at the church, or 50 meters down the road, a small layby for 2 cars.
Take the foot path signposted just after the church, and follow this diagonally down until you reach a couple of houses, follow the path down and left into the trees. After 2 minutes the main quarry will be obvious. to get to the bouldering, follow the path around the back of the short dark wall and the Left Wall can be seen immediately on the left. Right Wall is the next main face over.
Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Tom Twin Jones