Climbs 16
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 131m a.s.l
Faces SW
Crag features
A good afternoon/ evening crag with a peaceful vibe and a handful of starred routes. The venue was developed in the summer of 2020 by a group of locals who were keen to get back out climbing following the partial release of the first coronavirus lockdown. The rock is a mix of dolerite and slate and is generally nice and solid unless suggested otherwise in the route descriptions. Some of the routes have occasional bolts, but the climbs are mostly protectable with traditional gear. Many of the routes are equipped with lower offs.
Some of the lines in this quarry were rumoured to have been cimbed in the late 70s, but at the time of writing no route descriptions or records of first ascents seem to exist.
Approach notes
The laybys on the long strait section of road between Forge and Machynlleth are the best places to park but it should also be possible to park in the village if you do so sensitively.
If you're starting from the laybys the approach will take around 15 minutes and cross open land. Begin carefully heading south across the golf course making for the open hillside beyond (the land is all covered by the CROW act, but don't get in anyone's way). The quarry is tucked away at the far left end of the facing ridgeline and is positioned behind a bluff on the skyline just before it drops out of sight. It is worth noting that the venue is on the nearside of the pine wood, and that approaching from this direction should not require any boundary crossings. If you end up hitting the fence at the edge of the wood before you find the crag, handrail it left until it comes into view.
All being well you will likely find yourself stood at the top of the quarry above Birdsong Wall. Either abseil into this, or descend leftwards to access the routes which begin from the quarry floor.
If you're starting from the village the approach will take around 20 minutes and will mostly be on roads and tracks. Begin by climbing back out along the road towards Machynlleth and continue to the top of the hill where you will reach a gate on the left with a wheel at it's base. Pass through this and follow the minor road back diagonally up and accross the hillside ascending back above the village. Go through the next gate you arrive at and continue for 100 meters before leaving the road through a gate next to some large old iron machinery. Follow the fenceline on your left (often passing waist high bracken in the summer) for a short distance until it becomes possible to follow an old track up and right into the quarry's base.
No Access Issues
The crag is on a hill known as The Wylfa, which is registed as both access land and common land. This gives climbers a legal right to be there. There is currently no local oposition to the venue being used as an active climbing crag, but that could change quickly if climbers park poorly or do not use the area responsibily. Please take extra care to avoid impeeding the operations of the nearby golf course - give the golfers plenty of space to play if you're walking through, and don't leave your car anywhere that could impede the greenskeepers vehicles.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer MarkRoe