UKC

Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces all

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Exiting the gibbon cave (09/07/2019) © TheRoamingRedwood

Crag features

Formerly a well kept secret spot used by a few local climbers, bouldering only, most routes are tidal and have a good mixture of smooth & sharp limestone routes of all difficulties around the headland.

Several of the larger faces (Firestone wall, below the second blockhouse from the East side beach) & most of the Cornwall facing side (Gibbon cave area, Southernmost blockhouse area and the West beach) are prone to rockfall & top outs can be extremely loose, especially on highball problems.

 

Be aware that in the summer months it's common to have hot disposable BBQs thrown down from the clifftops, one of the perks of city bouldering!

note: some grades may have been changed to reflect user voting and grade suggestions as they were previously (VERY) soft 

Approach notes

Park in Devil's Point car park and the climbing can be found on the beach and around the headland. There are plenty of escape routes from the headland cliffs so getting cut off by the tide is very unlikely.

New routes, beta & topos coming soon! I'm currently working on naming / gathering names of each of the different buttresses / faces as to make a handy guide (with pictures!) for the area.
TheRoamingRedwood - 19/Jun/21
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Climbs at this crag

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