UKC

Climbs 9
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 249m a.s.l

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Left buttress, right butress few meters to the right. © Tommy Gunn

Crag features

The Cleave runs down the hillside until the two "buttresses" are met. Above them the rock has been overtaken by vegatation: there were many fun bouldering problems here. The two buttresses were cleaned up in the 1980s for group use and certainly there was climbing here before then. The routes on these buttresses have been climbed hundreds of times by holiday makers who booked taster sessions for climbing and abseiling at the crag. All the "routes" here have ben climbed before but not recorded electronically. There are many "routes" here, as different options can be taken to the obvious finishes. The Cleave is a nice picnic spot above the river. There are two butresses each approx 10m high, with stakes for belays - popular with groups. It is not granite but a metamorphic rock giving a good variety of holds which makes it a useful place for beginners.

 

Approach notes

Park near Cleave House, follow public footpath signed West Cleave, shortly after five min stroll you'll appear above the crag. 

The picture states that the rock is granite, it isn't but is some type of metamorphic slate.
Rob - 24/May/20
Hi added routes for historic completeness. Routes have beyond doubt been assented numerous times, however my approx grading is based upon solo assents.
Tommy Gunn - 06/May/20
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Climbs at this crag

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