UKC

Climbs 22
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1972m a.s.l
Faces S

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Graham McGrenere on the challenging slab of 'Bullet Through My Flow'. © Kim McGrenere

Crag features

Good topo here.

The Empress Slabs

From afar, The Empress Slabs are easily overlooked due to the impressive buttressing slabs to the side. However, on approach, the quality and character of the limestone becomes clear, as do the beautiful water formed features (or lack of). In true slab style, the climbing can feel delicate and technical with good footwork being key. Where features do exist, you will find a variety of crimps and underclings, dimples and holes, runnel and ripples to pull on. The slabs do also give away to some cracks, of which a few routes make the most of. The routes were initially developed by Kim and Flo; inspiring a few of the route names in the area! 

If the slabs haven't sold themselves yet, the views over the valley and the beautifully cooling nearby waterfall certainly should (coupled with the 15 min walk in from the track). The crag is south/south west facing and receives sun from mid morning until mid/late afternoon. It is relatively quick drying due to the crag’s exposure and breezier climate.

Shady Water Gully and The Nest

Contrary to what the name ‘Shady Water Gully’ may suggest, the gully is rarely in the shade until late afternoon. There is however a stream running through with a fenced off water pump. The lower wall features the hardest routes in the Bisetktor, including ‘Flor’ at 8b, currently Armenia’s hardest route. The higher wall offers a broader range of grades with some pumpy climbing.

High in the valley, The Nest has two faces. The main face gets sun early in the morning until mid-afternoon, while the area around 'Murder on the Rocks' is always in the shade. The climbing is steep, and the top anchors reward the climber with a stunning view of the rest of the cliffs. 

Approach notes

The Empress Slabs

The slabs are part of the main South facing cliff on the right hand side of approaching the Bisetka from Haghartsin village. Park on the side of the 4x4 tracks and cross over the deeply incut stream, following a rarely used animal track that will gradually take you around to the bottom of the slabs. About 300m from the 4x4 track.

Shady Water Gully

Descend West off the side of the jeep track into the obvous gully on the final turn on approaching up to the Bisetka.

The Nest

From the bisetka it’s a 20-minute approach; descend towards shady water gully, then either walk past the crag heading up the steep hill or head south following the animal track which gives a longer but more gentle approach. The Nest offers a range of holds and movements, and the routes are characterised by a hard lower section, ending on easier climbing.

Restricted Access

Climbing on existing routes is permitted, but new routing requires written permission from the Dilijan National Park authorities.

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