UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 4m a.s.l
Faces E

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Watching the waves come in at Bittangabee © Hog Dog

Crag features

This is a ~250 m long, 8-12 m tall edge of well-featured, hard sandstone. Cracks, breaks, pockets, corners and aretes are abundant. Many easy and moderately graded routes are interspersed with a few harder lines, with room for further development. The routes are of gritstone length and rise above a non-tidal flat platform, which remains dry unless the swell is large. Protection is trad, frequently available and good. Top anchors are generally easily found, although a 10 m length of static rope is handy for many routes. In spring time, humpback whales cruise by in a continuous steady flow throughout the day, often coming within 20m of the cliffs! This place is paradise if 10 m trad sea cliffs are your thing.

Approach notes

From Eden, head south on the Princes Highway, turning left on Edrom Road followed by a right onto dirt trails signposted to Green Cape in the Ben Boyd National Park. Follow signs for Bittangabee Bay Campground and park at the pay station ($8 per vehicle per day) above the beach and BBQ shelter. Follow the Saltwater Creek trail northwards through the bush and around the bay for about 30 minutess until it emerges onto a large open flat rocky area overlooking the water, marking the top of the cliffs. Descent is at either end, although the northern (climbers right) option is safer for kids.

No Access Issues

$8 day parking fee unless you have a NSW parks annual pass.

OOPS! I should have said this crag faces East. Sorry. Please correct.
Karl Bromelow - 04/Oct/19
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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Karl Bromelow and Hog Dog

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