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Climbs 4
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 443m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

This is an enormous crag with huge potential for new routes in all grades. Development here started in 2016 when climbers Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski established their stunning test piece route Feaver Dreams on the east face of the wall. Their ascent efforts were supported by local guides 'Uncle Sam' and Tam who were instrumental in establishing access to the wall via difficult to penetrate jungle.

The word about this stunning cliff with enormous new routing potential only got out slowly, and it took another 3 years and the return of Jonas and David in April 2019 before the second route on the mountain was established. This new route was christened Blood Sweat and Fear and breaches the previously unclimbed pinnacle of Batu Sirau, the peak 100m to the north of Batu Mumbar. 

Finally, in July 2019, inspired by various previous successful repeat ascents of routes on the Dragon Horns, Singapore-based climbers Mike, Alex, Stuart and Kai set their eyes on the still virgin south face of Mumbar cliff. Joined by elite couch surfer and world traveler Jo and local Tioman climbing veteran Tam, they initially set out to establish access to the base of the cliff. Tam, Stuart and Mike then successfully established the first route on the cliff, naming it Yoga Boy, in memory and honour of Tam's recently deceased climbing mentor. Buoyed by the team's success on Yoga Boy, Mike and Kai went on to established the first 4-pitches of the main central gully line, before they ran out of time, leaving the completion of this stunning route for another day.

Now that access to the base of the crag has been well and truly established, inclusive of spacious basecamp area at the foot of the cliff, the rate of future development will undoubtedly speed up.

Approach notes

Follow the coastal electricty line trail (freshly cleared in May 2019) from Tunamaya beach resort for 15 minutes heading North until you reach an obvious large dry river bed adjacent to a secluded beach (optional beach campsite possible here, but be aware that there are plans for the creation of a future 4-star resort on this beach). From here, follow the right-hand branch of the obvious wide dry river bed past a number of clear swimming holes, for about 30 minutes up to a clearly marked trail junction splitting off from the river bed heading steeply up left (looking up-river) into the jungle. Just below this trail junction is the last available freshwater point (unless it rains and you can fill up your bottles from one of the many waterfalls coming down Mumbar cliff!). Follow the clearly marked jungle trail for about 1 hour to a point just before you reach the base of Mumbar cliff at approximately 300m altitude. From here you have the option to either follow the marked jungle trail West along the base of the south face, or to continue up straight to access the routes on the east face or further along on Batu Sirau (aka Mistery Wall).    

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