UKC

Upload an image for this crag

Climbs 243
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 15m a.s.l
Faces E

Crag features

The limestone tower situated in Red Wharf Bay, Anglesey offers great bouldering on solid rock. It has the benefit of remaining dry (most) of the time when other venues are effected by seepage.

All climbs are described from left-to-right. For identification purposes, the best location point is the obvious book corner of Black Smoke Rising.

The link-ups start from established problems and are self explanatory once familiar with the area.

Approach notes

Park in the car park near 'The Boathouse' cafe. Walk leftwards across the beach by the wall towards the limestone tower. Where the wall of the beachfront house turns left, follow it up into the wood over a short rise until a vague path breaks off the main track rightwards through the trees to the open book corner of Black Smoke Rising.

Restricted Access

Nesting birds on the top so no routes are permitted. Bouldering is OK according to the land owner.

Hi Ian Thank you for your emails your lines sounded cool, they have been added and credited man, thanks again. Lee
leewil86 - 18/Mar/19
Please specify your FAs Ian....As there was not that much chalk when we returned , we have photos of 'your' chalk marks , we noticed a bit of chalk in the cave coming out and ending on a small pebble (that is no longer there) and on a crimp next to it we also noticed the first few moves of the right wall traverse called Herbert's problem but it went no further as there was still ivy along head wall.
leewil86 - 18/Mar/19
Wow, just spotted your photos, I was developing this venue In January, the chalk marks were mine! I did a lot of rubbish clearing, ivy clearing and climbed a few of the lines. Others were projects I was hoping to return to when I'm back fro working in Norway!! So some First Ascents hould read Ian Lloyd-Jones January 2019
Sl@te Head - 18/Mar/19
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers leewil86 and string arms

Loading Notifications...