Climbs 23
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 787m a.s.l
Faces N
Crag features
Saddle Peak (2600ft), located on Stunt Road, near the crest of the Santa Monica Mountains, is a north facing sandstone outcrop. While Saddle Peak receives modest traffic from climbers the rock exhibits a grainy/ball barring feel under foot and a considerable amount of lichen throughout.
Saddle Peak hosts fifteen bolt protected 'sport' routes, which often take or may require supplemental traditional gear, depending on your abilities and head for run outs on moderate grades. Remember to bring a selection of cams and nuts for most routes.
The rock is sandstone and sandstone conglomerate, with aggregate, xenoliths, or pebbles protruding from the matrix, on many routes. While Saddle Peak seems to be the perfect low commitment sport crag, the north facing aspect makes it shady and cold in the winter and sunny and hot in the summer. The best climbing days are warm fall or winter days and cool spring days.
The main wall is referred to as the 'Corpse Wall' as the route developers discovered a body at the base. The crag was developed in the mid-2000s.
Approach notes
Santa Monica Mountains. Park at the intersection of Stunt Road, Saddle Peak Road and Schueren Road hike up the Backbone trail to the west (towards water tower). The slabs are an obvious formation approximately 3/4 mile up the trail. The trail climbs for the first 1/2 mile and then descends slightly to the climbs - main wall to the left of the trail.
Getting there From the Stunt Rd / Schueren Rd crossing:
Go west down stunt road. The trailhead is 100 yards down on the left. Follow the trail up onto the the little road to the water tower. Go past the tower on the left side and continue up the hill. It’s a 10 min walk maybe longer because your going uphill with gear. It’s .3 miles to where the main trail goes hard left, you DO NOT... You split off and continue STRAIGHT on the smaller trail that begins slightly down hill. You will pass a long 20ft tall wall directly on the trail to your left. You will come to a small split you can continue to go straight to the top for top rope which also trails you around the back way that swoops back down to the bottom or take a right at the split and go directly to the bottom of the climbing wall. Being there: You're up 2600 ft bring some warmer clothes and a windbreaker. In the winter months before daylight savings you will not get a glimpse of the sun from where you belay and climb. It tends to get windy often especially in winter.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
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