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Climbs 12
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 3941m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The peak (4031m ASL) is situated in the Maloalmatinsky ravine. It features approx. 10 established alpine climbs ranging from the easiest main route from Pioner pass (1B) to Central South Face (4B).

More up to date info can be found here:

https://steelinside.com/?s=??????

https://alplager.kz/range/routes/

 

Approach notes

By public transport - Bus #12 from Almaty, hotel "Kazakhstan" to Medeo Stadium, then take a either gondola lift or bus "Eco-Bus" to Shymbulak Ski Area.

By car -  Drive past Shymbulak as far as your car is capable of, most cars can get as far as hotel "Vorota Tuyuk-Su". Currently only hybrid or electric vehicles are allowed to drive to/pass Shymbulak.

Once at hotel "Vorota Tuyuk-Su", follow track road past "Alp - camp"  to the Minzhilky weather station and then stay on the old ridge path untill you reach Alpinegrad.

From there, follow the path in the shallow gully till you reach the moraine on the left hand side of Manshuk Mametova Lake (No.6). There are several routes on South Face of the Pioner peak, which start on the left hand side of the Mametova glacier.

Main route is accessed by going up the scree slope on the left of the South Face till Pioner pass and then heading to the right.

Care should be taken as rock is loose and fridge size boulders move freely.

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Climbs at this crag

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