UKC

Climbs 43
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 41m a.s.l
Faces N

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Smeaton Edge © Betajunkie

Crag features

A very hidden quarry (little pex) wall consisting of monos, sloppy crimps and poor feet perfect for bouldering. Strong fingers and good footwork required grades from 6A to 7A+. A couple of platforms have been build so good landings. Problems can be topped out but not recommended.

Senator buttress is the big clean looking wall seen from the valley floor, where the best problem here abouts can be found.

Approach notes

The easiest approach is via a layby (4 spaces) on Wentedge Rd in between the Wentvalley Aggregates Quarry and Kirk Smeaton. From the layby, head through the gate on the opposite side of the road and follow the path down the field. Stay on the southern side of the river heading west. Keep walking down here until the big clean buttress (senator buttress) can be seen.

It is possible to go cross country to Little Pex (get google maps out), or continue walking along the path until you're directly under Little Pex (again, get google maps out. The quarry is well hidden from below) and then bash upwards through the veg until you reach the crag.

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