Climbs 15
Rocktype Welded Tuff
Altitude 25m a.s.l
Faces NW
Crag features
Short routes mostly in the lower and middle grades at the moment. The rock is better where it has been sea-washed. It deteriorates slightly towards the top but is fine as long as care is taken. Best at mid to low tide in the afternoon to evening once the sun has come round onto the faces and dried things out but many routes are unaffected by tide as long as there’s not a big swell running. Generally good belays. You can scramble off to the right (as you look at the crag) but it’s better and easier to set up an ab there. Alternatively, it is possible to scramble down ledges in the middle of the crag.
Approach notes
Approach will be overgrown in summer so maybe best in spring on a warm day. The crag is between Tintagel North and Willapark. Park at the north end of Tintagel. Take the unmetalled lane to a kissing gate leading to the coast path. Head towards Willapark. Approach 1: Better when the ferns etc are down. Via the coast path initially and then before the second kissing gate drop down steep grassy slopes via a faint path until sea level slabs are reached. Approach 2: In summer, when the slopes are overgrown, continue walking towards Willapark until you pass through another kissing gate. About 150/ 200 metres past the kissing gate, blast down through the undergrowth until it is possible to gain the top of the crag. The advantage of this route is that the ground is fairly even underfoot. It might also be a good option when the ferns etc are down.
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Climbs at this crag
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