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Climbs 26
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 401m a.s.l
Faces NE

Crag features

North East facing crag which is a good escape from hot weather. In the summer the crag gets shade from early afternoon, in the winter the crag is fairly sheltered from the wind.

The crag sits high above the village of Frigiliana, overlooking the Higueron valley. The crag is steepest at the base slowly turning vertical and then slabby in the upper reaches of most of the routes. Routes tend to be a mix of pockets and small tufa features in the first 8m then turning into edgy face and slab climbing in the latter half of the routes the top. A large cave dominates the middle section of the cliff, several unclimbed projects are bolted though this section. A line of bolts runs horizontally across the crag at about 8m height above the largest section of cave.

Most routes are between 15m to 20m long and the vast majority have recently been rebolted.

There is no guide, although its not uncommon to meet locals who are more than happy to show you round.

After the routes head into Frigiliana with its cobbled streets and whitewashed houses for a beer or some food in the many restaurants.

Litle information about the crag exists, grades have all been supplied from locals and the little local information available, route names are less well known. I've made up some names to add the routes to the database (marked by *).

This is a really worthwhile little crag and a great place to while away a few hours if you're on a family holiday and you're looking for a shady place to climb in the summer.

Approach notes

By Car:

Drive out of Frigiliana uphill away from the coast and into the hills. Just after passing the recycling bins on the edge of the village you'll go round  couple of sharp bends, he first has a sign for the national park on it, just after the second you'll see a stop sign and a notice board turn right here and follow the concrete road. The road will turn into a dirt track at some points and can be a litle rough, keep going and as the road flattens out you'll see a parking area on the left near a stand of trees. Park here, the track to the crag runs from the far side of the parking area, you should reach the crag in about 5 mins.

On Foot:

From the Plaza del Ingenico on Frigilana, the main square with the banks and Vertudes restaurant, walk into the old town, first Calle Real and after 200m walk up the steps of Calle Hernando el Darra. This will lead you up to Calle Armagura, kepp walking up until you reach the highest point of the village, the Calle Alta. Turn L onto Calle Alta and follow the road out of the village. After about 5-10 mins you'll reach the road described above, turn R and after aout 5 ins you'll see a parking on the L. The path to the crag runs from the far side of the car park, 5 mins down this track and you're at the first routes.

No Access Issues

None known.

An Avocado orchard runs along the base of the cliff, it's probably wise to stay off this land.

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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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