UKC

Climbs 32
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces W

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Fiend on Shipwreck Arete © Fiend

Crag features

This attractive venue offers something pretty unique for the Pen Llyn boulderer – beautiful orangey quartzite! The friction is proper boss and rock quality is generally excellent, particularly on the wave-washed more tidal boulders, a smattering of veins add to the attractiveness of the rock here. The problems range from lowballs with ok landings to highballs with awful landings and a bit of everything else in between. The problems recorded here were climbed mainly by Liverpool based climbers Owen McShane and Simon Huthwaite. With support from Sam Thompson, Rich Hession and Mark Dicken. After first discerning the opportunities the venue might offer in early 2015, it took an aligning of tides, weather and a sans-pads visit by Owen in 2015 to finally get a team together. The team have been visiting where possible over the last few months. There are a several real gems including the stunning Shipwreck Prow - a must do problem!

The venue is well known for being the site of numerous ship wrecks the most famous of which, The Stuart in 1901, has become the stuff of legend for the cargo of New Zealand bound Whisky that washed ashore!

A free topo is avilable to download at http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Porth%20Ty%20Mawr%20Bouldering.pdf or alternatively email the author simon.huthwaite@gmail.com

Approach notes

Approaching from Nefyn, turn right off the B4417 towards Llangwnadl. After a crossroads, take the next left signed for Porth Oer and Porth Iago. Parking is 600 metres up this road in an obvious layby. From here, walk on down the road until you reach the sign for Porth Ty Mawr at which point turn right. Follow this road past a farmhouse until you reach a gate. Go through this and bear right across a field heading for a conspicuous white tipped post and another gate. Go through this past the horses and on to another white tipped post. Locate and head for another white tipped post across a field at which point you should see a dry valley ahead stick to the right of this along an obvious path until some steps are reached on the left. Head down these steps, across the bridge by which time you should begin to see boulders on the beach below. Follow the path and your nose to the first of the boulders. This pleasant approach takes about 25 minutes.

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